New Lens New Location

Who knew we’d have a sunny weekend all of a sudden?! Cue some pre-Squamish outdoor fun. In an unfathomable 26℃ Nat and I headed to Limekilns where… dare I say it… it was almost too hot to climb. Amazingly my longstanding project – Velvet Glove – was still soaking though. But we had a good day anyway, my highlight being an onsight of New Golden Dream, E2 5b/c. Easy… The two of us might be photographers but neither of us brought a camera of course.

Al on a tricky top out, Callerhues. Photo: Jen Randall

I did take a camera to Callerhues however, and with a new 24mm lens I was excited to get snapping. I was pretty convinced it would be a crappy area despite Al’s unsquishable psyche, but I was wrong, it’s amazing. A little sandy in places but that just adds to the adventure. The problems are high, the grades are wild, the crowds non-existant and the lines are sweet! What more could you ask for other than a good navigator on the journey down?

Steve approaching the tricky top out. Photo: Jen Randall

The rock there is largely made up of crimpy horizontal bands which force you into some very pleasing, stretchy, foot-to-hand kind of moves. But saying that there’s also lots of slopey stuff and the world’s hardest VS. We just looked at that – it’s an overhanging crack that looks impossible to me. Crikey.

Callerhues Rock. Photo: Jen Randall
Highballing 5+... intense! Photo: Jen Randall

What’s been making me happy lately is that I’m finally getting along with my new shoes. I always thought getting new shoes was some kind of treat, but actually, breaking in these beauties has been a bit of a nightmare for some reason. It’s all gravy now though and they aided me in sending my first British 7a called Air, shazow! It’s a heel-hooking start to the world’s most pleasing jug, then a veeeerrryyy slopey finish, lovely. There aren’t photos of that because I opted for spotters instead. Whimp.

Me and my shoes. Photo: Alex Gorham

But the main event of the day was Al and Steve’s attempts on Crouching the Mahogany, a highball 7a+. A really highball 7a+. I’m going to get Al to take over here because I didn’t get on it, but enjoy my pictures!

Al on Crouching the Mahogany. Photo: Jen Randall


just flicking through this post i have noticed that everything end up looking lowball wen my lanky ass gets on it! just so its clear, highballs are higher for the tall because your head is higher up wen you are climbing and therefore the bit of your brain that makes you a puss is exposed to the dizzying heights sooner than if you were short….. well what im trying to say is that Crouching The Mahogany is epic. To epic for me anyway! but in reality its pretty safe it has a good landing and is vertical so has a pretty clean fall but it is  high really  really high! in the above picture the beta is to bring right foot to just below my right hand and turn the left into a press and Gun for the top of the crescent shaped hold above, Amazing but really committing reversing a press from 4m up, its gripping and to place even more kudos upon this line and its first ascentionists its was dun sans pads in climbing shoes that make rental shoes look “precise”. Its always refreshing being totally humbled by a place every so often wen im at dumby il catch my self thinking that im better than i am but really running laps of boulders that i have climbed hundreds of times or projected into non existence is not really climbing, At Callerhues i was gripped most of the day on climbs that the grade could be counted on one hand and it was amazing and humbling and i cant wait for more days out like this. however some of my friends did step up to the mark and inspired me, Steve climbed a nice 7b in record time and style which was basically a lot of crimps (his anti style)  and Jen climbed her first UK 7a it was her anti style, (overhanging and thrutchy)  but all her Squamish prep must be paying off! looking forward to returning after we get back from Canada.

on a final note was down Dumby the outer day and maybe started to piece together a pretty cool line that runs up home rule and finishes at the point of the boulder, its to hard for me but ladder man has been let loos on it so watch this space….

cobra on physical graffiti

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