Unimaginable Psyche Levels

I wish more female climbers would write about their climbing, because reading about it gets me psyched. I recently discovered Mina Leslie Wujastyk’s, Shauna Coxsey’s and have been reading Thomasina Pidgeon’s blog for a while. All of them seem to have a very different approach to crushing but all of them are really inspiring. And I need some inspiration at the moment because Jackie and I are going to try and climb The Nose this year, which means we’re gonna have to be FIT and STRONG.

We reckon it’ll take us about 4 days being big wall rookies, so so far we’ve been trying to up the endurance sessions and reminding ourselves how to climb with a rope. We’re not very fit yet. We’ve been following a routine once a week called the Turkey Workout which a friend spotted on The Climbing Hangar’s site, which is great for wearing you out, although we haven’t managed it in 2 hours yet, but this is only week 2! On top of that we’re doing one double day a week, where you either climb twice in a day or cycle/run and then climb later on and will be doing more of that per week as time goes on. We’re also making sure we still have sessions where all we do is try hard stuff, and make sure we’re getting on routes because clearly The Nose is one big route. Training is time consuming but very enjoyable so far. I’m excited for the weather to improve so we can get outside and remember how to aid climb, and learn how to haul. Obviously this is going to be the biggest physical challenge of our lives, and whether we do it or not is definitely touch and go, but having a big goal like this is so motivating, and planning our sessions for each week is really satisfying. My biggest worry for the climb itself is how scary the exposure will be and going to the loo…

If anyone has any good training tips for this kind of thing do let me know!

Oo and finally, check out a very short video I made about The Women’s Climbing Symposium last November!


4 thoughts on “Unimaginable Psyche Levels

  1. Big up on the ambition and moreso on the plan to make it possible!
    My take on the physical difficulties on The Nose and other big stuff (Mike & Dunc may well differ) is arms, general fitness & climbing with a rucksack, if that’s what you choose to do.

    But also realising that the physicality is probably less than 50% of the whole.

    The constant jugging/hauling killed my arms. Especially after 3 days on the face with less water and food than you need. I’ll never forget the shock of having fully locked bicep cramps by the last day.
    The fitness to keep going through long days is important, though maybe not as much as I thought before getting on the big routes. Your double day plans sounds ideal – a hard run followed by a climbing session is the only thing that gets me close to the feeling I got on the big routes.
    And I think just moving a bit on rock with a rucksack on before you leave could be a plan. Certainly more productive than the bouldering I was doing before I went out!

    But apart from all that, Efficiency is key. And that may be something you can only learn the hard way.

    That may be a load of twaddle, but some thoughts anyway…

  2. How’s the Turkey session working our for you? Good all round beasting for Nose style fitness the ol’ turkey burner. p.s. did you post any of the CWIF pics online?

    1. Hey Ged! The turkey burner is a total killer!! Can’t do it in two hours yet… There’s a load of pics from CWIF on the blog now, including that beasting one of you!

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