Here are some boulder problems that have left a lasting impression on me:
Trieste-Gottard, sit (8a/+) well where to begin… this thing is hands down one of the best boulders I have ever tried, it sits on the side of a mountain at about 2400m and is totally one of a kind! The line at first seems like it revolves around burly moves on slopers but for me the crux was a super tenuous rock over right at the end on a rubbish pinch and a pebble, after all the burl, and just as it starts to get pretty high! Watch Better Than Chocolate – the stand gets climbed and the end crux is filmed really well. Below are some pictures of the boulder… and the place… GO VISIT!
Steven giving it a brush.
Ma man, Steven Alexander demonstrating he is the unsung hero of next level compression roof climbing.. on a slab… Trieste-Gottard and the high chalky pinch is on the left aret.
On to Magic Woods, well there are a fair few problems that are as good as it gets but here are some that I got into:
Grit Delux (7a+/b) – I could talk about this but the next two images show it in all its glory….
Water-worn slabbymantlegoodtimes, also Chris’s flash.. one of the most impressive bits of climbing I have ever seen.
Supernova (7c) This feature is COOL, often very busy but for good reason. It’s polished and it climbs out of a hole before it drops of at the end… but it’s awesome!
My friend Steve managed this as his first 7c, it was pretty inspiring watching him work this thing and I could tell from early on that he had it in the bag!
The Riverbed (8b) this was a bit of a childhood dream and had been a secret focus of mine for a while. As the trip drew closer I became apprehensive, I had never tried this boulder before but had invested a lot of time in training for what I thought it would be like. I remember my friend Rob when I explained this to him saying something along the lines of ‘just get the job done’ so I decided I would.
To tell the truth I was ready to leave, it had been a good trip and I had managed to get some really cool climbs in. After four and a bit weeks since arriving I was feeling the strain of trying hard every day! But Magic Woods has taught me some pretty cool things and for those intrested here is a list…..
– jump in! The water aint gunna get warmer!
– you just have to try really hard.
-7c is still a grade I have not mastered
-eating 3 Big Mac meals+drinks, a chicken share box, a mcflurry (extra sauce), a slice of Mc-Cheescake and a brownie in one sitting will not aid recovery.
-everyone in magic is stronger than you….EVERYONE!